Look out Philly - the British are coming, but in peace this time

I was standing in the queue to view Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell, a proud and powerful symbol of American Independence in the city where the nation’s Declaration of Independence was signed and I found myself apologising to the US citizen next to me.

We both laughed. It was a light-hearted and even very warm moment that emphasised the connection between our nations, even with its rather chequered history.

And it was here in this city where one of the most significant acts in that shared history was carried out 250 years ago with a document signing that is being celebrated in 2026 during this Semiquincentennial year - that's America's 250th birthday. Independence National Historical Park is the place to learn about the events of 1776 and the traumatic years around the War of Independence.

Of course, the actual date celebrated each year is July 4, but throughout this year there will be events and celebrations of the birth of the nation. It’s a great time to visit, and perhaps many are already planning to attend World Cup matches in the US too.

So I suppose what I was apologising for was our nation trying to stop that independence, and also sorry for taxing without representation! 

Thank goodness we are now such great friends as was so superbly demonstrated during King Charles’ visit to the States recently. But while the King was visiting Washington, in 1776, Philadelphia was where the early Congress met. The cracked Liberty Bell, which broke during the 19th century making it unusable, remains a strong symbol of American defiance and is now housed in a new home which tells its story.

My next destination in this search for history was at nearby Independence Hall.

The colonial style building is overshadowed by some of the modern Philadelphia office blocks but once inside the security you are transported back 250 years. Tickets are free but limited so make sure you book your time slot well in advance. We saw the room where the delegates met to discuss and sign the Declaration of Independence and US Constitution. Be prepared to get much good-natured ribbing about your nationality and, if I had a pound for every time, I heard the cry “The British are coming” I’d be quite rich.

But, together with the fun narrative by the guide, what really stuck in my mind is the image of the chair that George Washington sat in during the deliberations between such historical heavyweights as Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson and other state representatives.

This was a fascinating visit during which I learned a lot - my husband knew much more about American history so could fill in the gaps. But don’t miss the chance to wander around the charming and quiet streets in this neighbourhood and make sure you see the bicentennial bell presented by the late Queen in 1976. There is a plaque showing her speech she made on that July day almost 50 years ago.

This is a highly walkable city. We stayed right in Center City as it's known, just steps from the stunning City Hall, topped by a 37 ft tall statue of Pennsylvania's founder William Penn, a view of which was the exciting outlook from our hotel room. It was the perfect place from which to set off exploring. 

The building used to be an old bank that was built in the 1920s and many of the art deco touches have been cleverly incorporated into the modern designs, although we were told the massive bank vault door in reception has nothing behind it.

Just across the street is Reading Terminal Market where you can take your pick of an endless array of all types of restaurants, takeaway food and produce and the perfect place to enjoy breakfast. We went full American, bacon eggs and pancakes at the Down Home Diner…. well, when in the US.

From here you can walk to Independence Hall - 15 mins. This is a highly walkable city, which we also found during our leisurely and fascinating Mural Tour of Midtown Village.

Philadelphia is known as the “Mural Capital of the World,” with over 4,000 murals created in the city. Even Hollywood actor Kevin Bacon’s dad Edmund, a city planner, is celebrated with a portrait.

For another fascinating tour we did have to go by car for a Taste of the Italian Market with Chef Jacquie. The market features in a scene from Rocky as he runs along the food stalls during training. Come hungry as there is a lot of food on offer from traditional Italian cakes to pizza and Vietnamese dishes. A real tasty treat. See https://streatsofphillyfoodtours.com/

Then, fully satiated, we took the 10 minute walk to Philadelphia Magic Gardens on South Street. This is one of those surprising, random fun spots that can make you smile and marvel at the patience it took to make this arty mosaic masterpiece with a few bicycle spokes, bottles, ceramic shards and other artistic knick-knacks thrown in - it is mind-blowing. See https://www.phillymagicgardens.org/

In contrast to this, we enjoyed another unique and wonderful artistic experience at The Barnes Foundation, which houses a collection of masterpieces by Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse and any other famous name you can think of. Unlike some art galleries, it feels like walking through someone’s home, relaxed with the art works covering the walls and near enough to really appreciate.

The collection was started by a rich local business man early in the last century when he snapped up European works of art long before they were appreciated. A new museum was opened in 2012 to house them and, whisper it, the collection of 900 paintings is said to be worth £19 BILLION.

Then a short walk away is THE place to get your selfie with the word-famous Rocky statue. It’s at the bottom of the famous steps to the Museum of Art that Sly’s movie boxer famously ran up as he trained for his world heavyweight title showdown in the 1976 Oscar-winner.

It gets very busy here. Hundreds of tourists were running up and down the steps as in the famous Rocky scene. I, however, only managed a slow walk to get to the top. I must get in training!

But the effort is well worth it and a must do - just like visiting this exciting city.

Look out Philly - the British really will be coming!

Where to eat

Gran Caffe L’Aquilla on Chestnut Street, great Italian dishes and to-die-for gelato.

Parc on S. 18th Street for trendy, bistro style dining in a lovely area.

McGillin's Olde Ale House, walking distance from the Loews Hotel, where the beer taps have been flowing since 1860. Mingle with the locals and try out the famous Philly Cheesesteak.

Fact box

GO: PHILADELPHIA

STAYING THERE: One night's stay at Loews Philadelphia hotel is from £146 per room. Book at www.loewshotels.com/philadelphia-hotel

OUT & ABOUT: For more information on Philadelphia, see www.DiscoverPHL.com

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